Radon Mitigation Systems | Radon Safe Homes | Northeast Wisconsin | Fox Valley | Testing and Mitigation Services

radonsafehomesandbusinesses @gmail.com

Serving the Fox Valley

920-858-1130

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Operation and Maintenance

What can you expect when you decide to install a radon reduction system?

Work is usually completed in one day, with only some projects taking longer. Before our arrival, ensure the work area is clear and safely accessible. Be sure to follow any instructions regarding building conditions for radon measurement or thermal imaging. We'll inspect the building to determine possible routes for the radon system and work with the homeowner or person in charge to choose the best option. This may be done during an earlier estimate or on the day of install just before starting work. A post-install radon test is arranged unless the customer wishes to handle it independently.

Radon is reduced using a technique called Active Soil Depressurization (ASD). Our pipe sucks air and other soil gases from below the lowest-level slab then vents them at an appropriate height, preventing them to enter the building envelope. The system is a permanent fixture to the home, not a temporary measure. Because radon is always rising from the earth, the vent and fan are always needed to extract it.

A simple system with one suction point, one fan, and one vent pipe is enough for most single-family houses. Some older homes, homes with multiple slabs, and large buildings may need more complex systems or multiple systems.

We guarantee an average long-term radon level below 4 pCi/l (picocuries per liter of air) with our ASD systems.

These are the components of a radon system.

Exhaust The exhaust of a radon vent is 3 to 6 inches in diameter yet contains all the soil gases it extracts from under the building - an extreme concentration that can be dangerous if the vent is in the wrong location. We always follow standards so our systems improve building safety, not compromise it. Proper exhaust location is one constraint determining where we can install the system. Always exhasuting outside the building and at least 10 feet above the ground, we must also keep the proper distance from intakes or opening windows - at least 10 feet horizontally or 2 feet vertically. (Any device that vents soil gases is also venting radon and therefore must comply with radon standards, even if it's not called a radon system or intended to be one. For example, vapor intrusion and moisture reduction systems). If you have a radon vent that does not meet standards (knee-level, directly below a window that can open, etc), please call us to have it recitified!
Suction point Choosing the right location(s) to draw soil gases from is part of the art and science of radon installation. Some buildings are very flexible in this regard, especially those with gravel and drain tile under the slab; others with dense soil or sub-slab obstructions have specific requirements. The U-tube manometer is installed on the pipe indoors; check this to ensure your system is working.
Pipe The suction point connects to the exhaust through a continuous pipe. We strive to find a route that is effective, meets standards, and is unobtrusive - from below the slab to the vent height and every level in between. Occasionally this is a challenge when retrofitting a finished home or squeezing into a new build where radon wasn't planned for. We use PVC schedule 40 which has waterproof, airtight joints and is very durable. Some radon pipes do not have fans. These are called passive systems. They are often installed during construction - check if your house already has one! Sometimes they can reduce the radon on their own; often they need a fan installed to boost effectiveness.
Fan Applies pressure to the suction pipe so the soil gases flow into the pipe rather than into your building space. Must not be installed inside the living space or crawl spaces below it. Garages, attics, and the exterior are acceptable locations. Why? Systems have a "vent side" above fan, which pushes air out, and a "suction side" below the fan which sucks air in. If the piping in your house were to somehow leak, it would only suck air in rather than spewing radon out because that part of the pipe is suction side. There is an electrical disconnect such as a switch or socket within 6 feet of the fan.
Sealed sump lid Any sump pits must be airtight for radon systems to work properly, even systems that are not directly connected to the sump pit. An unsealed pit would be the single biggest air leak that makes a radon system ineffective. It would cause such pressure loss that the system can not do its job. (Imagine trying to drink soda out of a straw with a big hole in between your mouth and the can). Bolt-down gasket type lids are common. If needed, we custom make clear plastic lids cut to fit your existing sump system then seal the edges with silicone sealant. These are removed by cutting the silicone, but stay reliably airtight until then, while still allowing you to see inside.
Slab The slab itself is an important component. It acts as a barrier separating air above it from soil gases below it. A tight, leak-free slab maintains presure under the building while preventing any backdrafting of air inside the building envelope. Sometimes leaks must be sealed as part of radon installation. After installation, any new leaks should be taken care of too. Common leaks include gaps between the slab and foundation wall, floor cracks, perimieter drains, anywhere with exposed soil such as shower boxes, and anywhere wood goes into the concrete. A large area with no slab, such as some crawl spaces, sometimes needs sealed plastic sheeting installed to apply a suction point or prevent leaks. In this example, the concrete was not fully poured around the stairs and the leak was big enough that the radon system didn't function until it was sealed.
For new construction and major renovations Take the opportunity to work with us for the most effective, inconspicuous, and economical way to make your project radon-safe. Much of the piping can be hidden inside walls. The existing drainage system can often be used or modified to get excellent airflow and quiet, reliable operation. In new construction, even the attic access can be placed for easy service that won't distrub insulation. Any potential leaks or blockages to airflow are best dealt with before the slab is poured. Rough-ins should ideally be scheduled after framing is done but before the roof is shingled, slab is poured, or drywall installed. Floor plans and other necessary information should be provided before day of installation. With good scheduling and the right information, we can do a great job with minimal delay or inconvenience.