Operations and Maintenance | Radon Safe Homes | Northeast Wisconsin | Fox Valley

It is in your interest to understand the use and care of your radon reduction system. It needs little maintenance, but there are some things to be aware of. Periodcally confirm that your fan runs. If it doesn't, contact us to have it replaced. Any updates to your home should be made in a radon-safe manner. If you have any questions or concerns, please email us anytime or call between 9:00 AM and 5:00 PM.

Radon systems are simple in principle. They work by moving unwanted soil gases from under the slab into a vent pipe. Most problems are because not enough air is flowing, or because air is flowing but not from the right area under the slab.

Radon fan Because radon continually rises from the earth, the vent fan runs constantly to extract it. Observe the U-tube at least quarterly. Dead fans should usually be replaced with another of the same model. A different model may be used on the advice of a qualified professional. A fan is just one part of a radon system. Proper design and installation is needed to get good results. Only an accurate radon measurement can prove its effectivness. Typical electrical cost is well under $10/month. We can help you calculate the consumption in terms of kilowatt-hours. Fans that are wearing out tend to get louder or make intermittent noises, but may still do their jobs. We can replace any fan that eventually fails or becomes annoying.
U-tube manometer / pressure gauge -> Video Demonstration Checking this gauge is your most important job as a radon system owner. It tells you if the fan is running. Displays pressure difference between each side of the tube - one inside the pipe, the other in open air. Normally on the basement pipe. On the left, U-tube shows the fan working well. There is a difference in pressure. In the center, U-tube shows "0-0". Sides equal. The fan is not running. If you see "0-0", make sure the flexible hose is connected between the U-tube and pipe. On the right, our fan is running but the hose is disconnected. Rarely, U-tubes get stuck and falsely indicate a pressure difference. If you remove the flexible hose from the pipe, the two sides should immediately equalize. If they don't, it's stuck. Easily fixed by tapping it or very gently blowing into the hose until the fluid moves. On passive vent with no fan, there is usually no U-tube.
Power A non-running fan could be dead, or it may be unpowered. Ensure it's plugged in or its switch is turned on. Check any GFI devices or breakers connected to the same circuit as the fan.
Rubber couplers The fan and any radon pipe to a sump pit are connected with rubber couplers. These are provided for service. The hose clamps are loosened or tightened with a large flathead screwdriver or a 5/16" hex. Once loosened, couplers can slide down the pipe. The seal of a roof flashing or airtight sump lid may be compromised by interacting with these couplers! Do not adjust them unless you have a good reason. They offer quick access in case your sump pit is filling.
Sealed sump lid Sump pits must be airtight for radon systems to work properly, even systems that are not directly connected to the sump pit. Bolt-down gasket type lids are common. If needed, we custom make clear plastic lids cut to fit your existing sump system then seal the edges with silicone sealant. When the seal is broken, it must be restored to airtight condition. If a radon pipe goes into the sump pit, remove it first before taking off the lid. Silicone is easy to cut with a razor knife or flathead screwdriver. Some of our lids are cut to flex around the pump pipe. There is no danger of them breaking if you flex them. Others slide up the pump pipe.
Other leaks in slab or foundation wall Relevant leaks will be dealt with at the time of radon system installation. In time, new leaks can appear by age, damage, or modifications to the building. The joint between basement slab and foundation wall could expand. New cracks could form in the slab or foundation wall. Backflow valves in floor drains may get stuck open. New holes for plumbing, etc must be patched up. Interior perimeter drains can cause massive leaks. If you get one or plan on getting one and you also have a radon system, please contact us.
Backdrafting of combustion appliances Not a concern with newer forced-air appliances. If a radon system causes strong enough draft, it may cause exhuast gases from older naturally-vented appliances to backflow into the building envelope rather than into the vent hood. This could result in carbon monoxide exposure. If necessary, we test for backdrafting during installation. It doesn't hurt to check every few years and to have a carbon monoxide alarm installed near these appliances. Top: Proper installation Bottom: Poor performance and potential hazard due to leaks.
Ice The air flowing through radon vents has high moisture content. On the very coldest winter days, ice can form on the tip of the vent. Normally this doesn't obstruct the vent and melts away as soon as it warms up. If ice does obstruct the pipe for a long time, it can be removed. It's best to turn off the fan and wait for it to stop spinning first. Ice can be prevented from falling into the fan by removing the top of the vent from the rubber coupler. We're sometimes asked why our vents don't have rain caps or critter guards. It's because ice forms on those so easily. In Wisconsin, they'd cause much more trouble than they'd solve.
Fan cleaning Most radon fans never need any cleaning, but the only way to tell if one does is to inspect it physically. Some buildings have so many bugs under the slab that they get sucked in and build up a layer of gunk on the fan, which causes noisier operation and a shorter service life. While the fan can work for a while in this condition, it really should be cleaned. We offer a regular cleaning service, but this is also something you might do for yourself, especially with exterior systems. The fan is turned off and disconnected from pipe for inspection or cleaning.